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Travels in May

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England at her best - that amazing moment in early May when it all happens.  I've been all over the place, in the nicest way - as you'll see. The blog starts this week with a visit to beautiful Chettle, the house in Dorset where I was so lucky to work, alongside the architect Hugh Petter and landscape architect, Pip Morrison, a few years ago - for wonderful, enthusiastic clients who truly brought this building back to life.  I was looking around with a new client, who's wanting to build a new house and was seeking inspiration from old places. It's a very good way to proceed. Here are Rosamond's fine chickens looking very at home - and you could almost imagine a cover like this on a book called, 'England at her best' (ideally with a foreword by the late Duchess of Devonshire).

That week I was in Hampshire too.  I was speaking at the brilliant Winchester Books Festival, staying with my great friend George Saumarez Smith, and on the evening before we went over to supper with Max and Jane Rollit, and family. Here is a glimpse of Max's extraordinary antique barn, filled with the best ever stuff, displayed in beautiful and brilliant room sets.

And, on a gentle curve in a lane, Max and Jane's cottage.  Old Hampshire. I felt like I had stepped into a Victorian watercolour.

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The next day, after my talk, George and I walked home past beautiful, ancient Winchester Cathedral. How good are these simple mown paths in the church precinct?

Clumps of cow parsley and bluebells taking shape.  Everything that amazing, intense shade of spring green.

A glimpse into George's beautiful house in Winchester, filled with treasures.

The next day, after breakfast, I headed to London - for just a few hours. It was a book fest double-whammy - I was talking at the incredible Pitzhanger Manor, the country house of Sir John Soane - now encroached by suburban Ealing. I had a quick 15 minutes between arrival and being on show to revisit some of the amazing rooms.

Newly-painted Chinese paper by Alasdair Peebles in the George Dance Room - work of astonishing quality.

A highly recommended visit.  I gave my talk, Bridie came, we had a lovely lunch in an Ealing cafe on a balmy afternoon, and then, although it sounded strange, I was back down to Hampshire that evening to stay with Kim Wilkie.  The farm had never been looking more idyllic.

Primroses and violets on the woodland floor.

Pip's amazing auricula table.

Kim and I were off to the Isle of Wight for the day.  The solent looked and felt like Greece. Flat calm.

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A brilliant site day and then back to London. There are a LOT of moving parts in life just at the moment! Charlie and I were moving out of one half of our flat that week. Now that Westness is part of our life, we didn't need so much space in London.  I've been slowly packing for the last few weeks but the moment was suddenly upon us.

Such a happy part of our lives but it's good to simplify, and VERY good to halve our rent each month!

Meanwhile on the day that the Orcadian removers actually arrived - I was on another day of inspiration site visit.  We were first at beautiful Peckover House, Wisbech, owned by the National Trust, with it's astonishing Rococo interiors...

Look at this cookbook!

The china room.

Followed by Belton, Lincolnshire - also National Trust - far, far grander, but so beautiful.

The atmosphere in some rooms is intense - what a feeling of history.

The ancient stone walls glowed in the hot sunshine of this amazing month.

Wyattville's serene orangery... perfect.

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The tour hurtles on. At the end of the week, we went to Bristol, for our friends' wedding. I got down early and had a wonderful walk for half a day.  York Terrace, Clifton - too large and too long, frankly....?

With an extremely useful explanation half way along.  I could see why the speculator had gone bust during the project!

I loved this little crescent, too, where a kind owner saw me admiring the place and showed me the gardens - heaven. (no photos though).

A walk through Clifton...

The Clifton Suspension Bridge, so fine.

Serene.

Not quite so much can be said for some of the more recent architectural interventions in Bristol. I think this is M&S maybe?

Modernist architects love to call traditional architecture 'pastiche', or stuck on. I couldn't believe this building. 

Anyway, the wedding was brilliant.  Full of humour and happiness. We had the best time with old friends and new.

The next day, continuing the hurtle... I was in Poundbury taking a tour of Americans around.  It was looking lovely. Here is the crescent of houses I designed some 20 years ago now. Settling in.

That was Sunday. Monday was a bank holiday and Charlie and I were on the train to Edinburgh.  Charlie was having his new kilt fitted!  We walked out to Leith, to the makers.  This is not the sort of photo you'd expect me to show, announcing Edinburgh - but look at this fantastically rare 1930s survial - original curved Crittal windows.   The scourge of the plastic window replacement had infected all the other buildings - but one house has a remaining hint of art deco beauty and refinement.

It's a long time since I'd been down to Leith - wonderful.

The kilt was from Kinloch Anderson. Here are their Royal Warrants, very beautiful on the walls.

With plenty of good photos too.

An old Tartan book.

And the factory - closed because of the holiday, but wonderful to see right here in the centre of Leith.

We were measured up and on our way.  Fantastic warehouses...

Customs House...

And then to Leith Docks...

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Where we'd decided to visit (slightly random but we LOVED it) the Royal Yacht, now moored up here as a tourist attraction.  An excellent exhibition to start...

The late Queen saying goodbye to the yacht on its decommissioning - a sad day for her.

The state drawing room in its old fabric (Warner or G P & J Baker I think...?)

You then go on board.  It's very well done.

You can see why it was time to decommission - it's a wonderful ship, but she's old.

A Landrover would be winched on and off...

The Queen and Prince Philip on holiday. in the Highlands.

The Sun deck - with a modern sofa...

But with very good copies of Country Life,

And a fantastic games and stereo cupboard.

The Queen's cabin.

The Duke's cabin.

Rear deck.

Officer's mess - so much Morris & Co, to remind everyone of home (standard issue throughout the fleet, I remember it well from Dad's ships).

Napkin holder in the officer's dining room...

China room...

Silver room.

The Queen's study.

The Duke's study.  Such a great carpet.

Below decks...

The Sick Bay. A Morris & Co slip cover would definitely make me feel better.

The operating theatre.

The laundry.

We all need a shoulder shaper.

The engine room - impeccable.

The Queen and the Duke, sailing Bluebottle on the Beaulieu River, 1949.

A fantastic tour. I couldn't recommend it highly enough.  So full of atmosphere - how quickly the world moves on.

We've always loved this photo, by Snowdon, of The Queen at P&H - it's a key image in the P&H Alphabet (a few copies are still for sale here if you don't already own one!)

We had a walk in the New Town when we had finished on board.  A truly wonderful afternoon - hot sunshine.

Intriguing shutters.

The next morning, Charlie was off early to Orkney. I had an hour before I was taking the train to Inverness.  Another walk, this time down to the Raeburn estate and the Colonies, re-charging the design batteries.

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And then to Tornagrain.  This, as regular readers of the blog (or my book) will know, is a project truly close to my heart - the new town for the Highlands that we are masterplanning and designing in the studio.  There are now almost 400 houses completed and occupied. It's a little while since I've been, and it was looking so settled and content.  We were taking around the team from the other new town we're working on in Hampshire, Welborne Garden Village - of which more in a future blog.   Here are some progress shots of Tornagrain.

Rob, from the office, and Lord Moray, inspecting the allotments - which have never looked so good!

The woodland nursery school in the background.

The community orchard.

The first square.

The Market Cross in the new square under construction.

Second allotment. The beautiful woven willow fence was designed by Nicole Petrie, who works for Tornagrain and does so much to make the place feel so amazing.

The newest phase...

A new apartment building, just completed.  Simple, but I hope dignified?

Meandering back to Phase 1.

The Tornagrain bluebell woods are a sight to behold.

And then - I was at Westness... at last...

But that needs to be a blog for another day, because all these travels have taken up too much of your day already.

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16 comments

What colour are your shelves, wish I was still living on London and could take the flat.

William Robley

RAF officer’s quarters had the same morris material as loose covers!The MOD must have bought miles of fabric!

Elizabeth Cornwell

As always, entertainng, infomative and oh so generous!

Patricia

The visit to the Royal Yacht is fascinating. I just returned today from staying on the Queen Mary, permanently docked in Ling Beach. I stayed in the Queen Elizabeth Suite where the Queen stayed during her transatlantic return from a goodwill trip to Canada in 1854, having been preserved in its original state. My daughter had the Churchill Suite, Winston Churchill having traveled on the Queen Mary both in wartime and afterward. There are many interesting historic features of the Wuern Mary and I’m so pleased to be able to visit it in Southern California. Also very much enjoying all posts about Westness and young Lucy ❤️

Marie Manelis

Beautiful photos of the various buildings and the bluebells. Love the new development of homes, so lovely and the Royal Britannia. I remember when it docked in Toronto Canada briefly and we went down to have a look at it.

Darlene Chandler

I would agree, one of the best yet.

Brent McKenzie

LOVING the rug of New Zealand under the Duke’s chair in his study! xx

Mary-Anne

I was surprised to see a KEARTH (KRTH 101) bumper sticker in the Royal Yacht. Long lived radio station here in L.A.

Paula

One of your BEST vlogs ever!! Such variety. Loved the plasterwork in Peckover House—sublime. The interior of the royal yacht, all the details even below deck:). You take us places we will never see and can only dream of. Your friends live in some of the most enchanting locations in some of the loveliest homes. You are one blessed man Ben:).

Laura Harrison

So beautiful, all so inspirational. And, I would be thrilled to live in any village you design, Ben. Thank you.
Katherine

Katherine Hunter

All so fascinating. Ben you bring the nostalgic best to us here in Cape Town. Thank you for the wonderful visuals.

Peter Sullivan

Taken up too much of my day already??? HAH! This is my favorite blog of all time. You are welcome to take up as much of my day as you want. Your writing, photographs, and the vignettes you show of your life are wonderful.

Lesley

Never too much time, I love them!

Bea Mitchell

Thank you for another wonderful blog. I don’t know how you do so much in so short a time. So many beautiful sights. The new town is wonderful. Thanks for sharing

Annamaria Strachan

This in fascinating, interesting and the architecture just stunning

Victoria Heselton

Not at all! Such a joy to see ‘Ben Pentreath – Inspiration’ in the Inbox, and this one is just as wonderful as they always are.

Sian Hughes

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    Pentreath & Hall
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